One wild night in London inspiring a fierce and mundane collection.
By Lauren Dingman
November 3, 2022
A bar, Printworks, in London is now a runway on October 13, for Raf Simons’ Ready-to-Wear Spring 2023 collection. The energy and atmosphere of the night life of London inspired Simons to create this collection being featured at a rave bar that was turned into a runway venue for this show. Models rise above thousands of viewers, who crank their heads to view the models as they glide across the bar. Yellows, blues, black, and mesh dominate the catwalk. This collection embodies sleek and traditional life and features collaboration with the Philippe Vanderberg Foundation.
Giovanni Giannoni
Simons took a new direction from previous collections; large square shoulder overcoats are replaced with crisp and smooth blazers and what was once colorful patterns now monochromatic shade outfits consisting of few bold shades. As Raf Simons states for Vogue, “I didn’t want to do deconstruction in a complicated, conceptual way, I wanted something very stripped-back, very reduced. Not overly styled and overdone.” The clothes do not take away the vision they instead empower the idea of natural sway of the human body. The collection is not tailored to fit precisely and have inhumane proportions, but instead the opposite that they are made for anyone and all bodies. As the models walk above the audience their bodies pulse with movement and garments flow candidly.
Stark white and black clash against each other in blazers and shoulder shirts that reach the hips are decorated with the works Belgian artist of Philippe Vanderburg in a graffiti style. Shirts and pants color of egg yolk are paired with matte blacks and olive. Rompers and blazers are single toned and hug the body yet is not snug and creates an impression of being baggy and highlights the natural curves and mobility of the body. Skintight pants the color of freshly sprung daffodils paired with relaxed fitting coats. Mesh tops of cerulean blue and deep red, blazers, and vests are bold and refined. Raf Simons extenuates the body and the fluidity of movement.
Although few colors are used Simons manages not to overuse them and creates contrasting but cohesive looks. Blazers are paired with baggy shirts, mesh tops, and square silhouette dresses of polished leather. Tights create a contrast to these simple outfits and colors resulting in a more appealing style. If a rave inspires simplistic clothes what does a boring night inspire?
